Regalia Rueful

Mmm, quite a production.There were at least 40 models and the place was packed to the gills. Art Central has an inner atrium that is 3 stories with stairs going down through in 5 levels and the models strutted their stuff up and down to a roaring soundtrack, shouts of approval, flashing lights, video and camera. Dee was the MC and wearing one of her infamous Birthday Bras was visibly excited and proud of both her students and Art Central's fifth birthday. (Photos that turned out tomorrow in follow up post, maybe some video...)

BUT, and this is a BIG but--where was the cutting edge, the unexpected, the experimental????????? While using and recycling plastics, bags, silk flowers, duct tape and yards of cheap tulle may result in a few pleasant moments, there was no edginess, no OMG moments, no real art. I may make local enemies with this, but i was quite disappointed in the end. Oh the music and the crowd and the posturing made the show involving, but the "regalia" was not Regalia. "....feature some combination of precious materials, artistic merit, and symbolic or historical value."  Are the schools here simply too conservative, the lesson plans too narrow, the reference and research too rural? Are we afraid we will offend the teachers, or would we rather make our course scores than art?

When i first started using a computer, one of the first things i spent hours on-line "cruising" was wearable art, in all its permutations. I found everything from just plain wierd role playing costuming and historical re-creation, computer electronics to wear (the precursors of ipods and hands-free technology), boxy patchwork sweatshirts and then stunning painted silks, Carter Smith shibori dresses, Fraas and Slade coats and Australia and New Zealands WOW (World of Wearable Art). For stretches of 8 hours at a time, i found things that amazed me, horrified, amused and awed me, gave me feverish plans and a crowded brain--and that was 10 years ago. Where's the stretching that could compete now with what's out there???????? Aren't these kids exposed and introduced to any of this?

Where are this generation's ShaSha Higby (my own personal favourite from waaaaaaaay back!), Estelle Akamine, Nick Cave, Barbara Setsu Pickett and Billy Bowery, Zandra Rhodes and Kaisik Wong? Admittedly, a lot of these artists have progressed from their performance artwear of the 60's and 70's (will have to post photos in older books i have--follow-up tomorrow ) to new directions and mediums/media, (and Kaisik Wong has passed on to the Great Runway in the Sky) but still....archives do exist, people! Thank god for people like Danny Mansmith, Lori Marsha and Outsapop!

Now fer petezake, google wearable art!

"Make It" Calgary

I didn't know there was one of this kind of show here!!!!!! NEXT YEAR!!!!

I'm still "digesting" last night's experience at Art Central! I have a few photos that are postable (the lighting was too dramatic for my camera), some exposure to new artists and their work, millions of ideas and possible connections to be gelled.

Regalia and Art Central

Tonight after work, several friends and i are going to see this. Students at ACAD (Alberta College of Art and Design) under the tutelage of teacher Dee Fontan will be presenting work from the class "Wearable Art: Body and Object". I'm less interested in the fashion side of it--rather i am interested in the "body" part and curious to see their interpretations of my favourite subject.

 

(Image stolen from Art Central)

Art Central is right in downtown Calgary and hosts studios, cafes, retail shops that carry local artists of all ilk, framing shops and artist supplies, galleries and hosts art events of all sorts. Looking forward to seeing more of this! And yes i will be taking my camera!

the real Frankenstitch lesson

Again, i apologize for the quality of yesterdays video! My camera has the capability of recording video but is not really a camcorder :} I'm trying one more time to do a wee one--if this doesn't work, well, then i'll just keep practicing----but i won't subject you to my pain until i've got it down pat (poor Pat). This one is "scripted", ie what i said is directly below the video in written form :} Using video is a real learning curve, but this ol' dogette will learn new tricks!

EDIT: i'm DAMN pleased with this one--even though i actually cut off the last thing i wanted to say!

Okay, you've made your fabric and thread choices, and may have already started without me. (DO NOT USE A HOOP. This is truly a hands only technique.) On the fabric sample i've been using there are areas that are more defined by the dye---i could choose to use those as the areas to stitch or define them more by framing them with stitch. (This is why i suggested a "mottled" fabric to start your adventure with.) You can build a design from the appearance of the fabric, or add stitch in a pattern of sorts to create a design. I find this technique is more of a background enhancer that an actual image in itself, though with some planning, i suppose that could be as well!

I'm not going to take you through basic stitches in this lesson--i'm assuming you already know how to embroider. If not, do a little research: there are tons of books in the library or look online for detailed photos and instructions.

When using the backstitch so loosely and in large motions, make sure your tension is not so tight that you squinch the back as well--the stitches should hold the bulges but not flatten them. If you do have this problem, simply flip the piece over and pull gently on the "edges" to raise the front more.

Sometimes you will create more borgles and lumps with this technique than were there initially--this is okay, just use them also---in the end if there are many, start doing smaller stitches on smaller "pinches" of fabric to square up the piece. It's akin to creating darts that are visible to "flatten"! (On a side note, this technique is fabulous for creating 3 dimensional shapes as well as high relief on 2 dimensional projects.)

Now for what i call the "built in" stitch. This is areas that are started by using a large buttonhole or basic needlelace technique over a much wider expanse than normal. It pulls the fabric into valleys and spaces under the stitches. The top buttonholing can be gone over in random directions with other colours, thread weights or densities of the buttonhole, but leave some spaces open. Though fiddly, it is worth the effort and correct mouth position to then add stitches under the buttonholing. Beads and found objects also come into play here. The idea is not to flatten out this area but to allow the depth to happen. Use more of the Frankenstitch, spiderwebs, smaller bits of buttonhole, backstitch, whatever you like, in the dips and grooves. You can also use any other method of "threadwork"--there are bits here of needleweaving, crochet and raised buttonhole bars as well. Sky's the limit , but remember this technique shouldn't overshadow the main focal point!

Clear as mud now? Doing this is easier than explaining it! Breaking things down into steps is the way to learn and teach, but i'm not sure if i haven't just gotten too wordy about a very simple method! All you have to remember is to forget what you learned previously about precision, daintiness and tension! Now go play with it. I'd love to see some samples from you too, please!

Update on Wed, November 4, 2009 at 1:38PM by arlee

The top photo in this entry is the corner in the start of video of Beautiful Bones before i added the "built in" stitching.

pears

I've been playing with pears as a subject for the bread and butter work for the flower mines. We have some  gorgeous gift bags and boxes with this design and i knew i had to use them as inspiration!

Tweaked a pattern and came up with these:

The larger one is 7" and the smaller 4".

This is my Bible for three dimensional work:

No matter how many times i have winnowed out my library, i have kept this one. It was published in 1978 and is invaluable! Used with a 1974 copy of Dona Meilach's "Soft Sculpture and Other Soft Art Forms" and Janet Edmond's "Three Dimensional Embroidery" (2005), i have all the technical knowledge i need to create shapes and forms. (The first two are definitely out of print, but keep an eye open in used bookstores!)

And yes, Frankenstitch will continue this afternoon with more instructions and (maybe) another video!

Frankenstitch how to, part two

ARGHHHHH. I'm not sure how much point there is going to be about doing videos for this, though i will try my best.

This one took all after noon to make because i forgot how i did it the other day. Then i couldn't download it, then i couldn't save it; then when i did, i couldn't find it again in my files to put on Youtube! The end runs on because i forgot to shut it off. I'm not sure if i need to add more lighting as well. Please forgive me for the monotone voice--i was trying hard not to yell, swear or go off topic, hoping it would work this time! I promise i will get better at this :)Someday, yeah, someday i will look back on this and laugh---Narf............

Enough whinging and excuses. Ta da. Or something.

Tomorrow i'll post the actual INSTRUCTIONS!

Stitchionary---how to Frankenstitch, part one

I was sent a lovely email with a request to learn how to "Frankenstitch" by Lise (another Albertan, exquisite beading!), after seeing Beautiful Bones in Cloth/Paper/Scissors, and decided that i would share with everyone, not just privately. I was going to post this on Halloween, but writing it took a little longer than planned :}

Back in March of this year,I started keeping a "stitchionary" file of things that worked when i was first working on my Artist's Body series. These are from Beautiful Bones, Mitochrondia: Incubation 1 and my current project My Heart Has A History.

 First of all, this is not rocket science. You just have to forget some of the rules about embroidery we've all strained to achieve when first learning to keep stitches even, fabrics flat and threads untwisted. Fuhgeddaboudit--none of that applies here.

Find yourself a fabric that is mottled in appearance: this can be a hand dye, something previously overlooked as "ugly" or frayed "holes-and-all" scraps. Any of these can be a cotton, rayon, silk or even a shifty synthetic :} You need a "batting"---- i use flannelete, old or new (but washed: sheets, diaper material, old PJ's!) or something of similar hand and weight, as it gives enough body but still has some drape when the whole is complete. Lay your top fabric on this and DON"T worry about straightening or being on grain! Frankenstitch is a way of "leveling the field"---the more bumps and borgles you have, the better. In fact, you can cut your top fabric slightly larger than the batting, pull it in to fit and pin all the edges to hold together. (Use safety pins on the reverse so they don't stick you or snag the working threads.)

You can use any thread that will fit through any needle for this; just be aware of how much friction there is as it goes through your fabric. I use either 6 strands or 3 strands of embroidery floss, depending on the feel of the piece. One strand if using an embroidery floss or fine thread would snap because of the tension used in this technique, but could be effective if the stitches are smaller on a finer fabric. Experiment with perle cotton and any heavy machine thread as well.

Video in next entry--and maybe the one after that too!

On a side note, did you know that Mel Brook's "Frankenstein" is 35 years old now?!?!?!?!?!?! Some of us "Classics" just get better and better :}

lesson on Frankenstitch coming!

I promised to show someone how to do this technique. I'm trying to do a couple of small videos so will post later this afternoon. Stay tuned!

flattering BUT

Your Name: Kate
Your Email:  XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
Subject: Textiles
Message: Hello there! I have stumbled across your textile art that you do! I am very inspired by it, as I am an art student and taking textiles in my foundation year. I am looking for an tips or pointers in a direction of an area in textiles as it is something i am very interested in and enjoy doing very much! If you could help me at all it would be greatly appreciated!

Sincerely Kate

I would imagine that some of you out there in Blogland get these requests as well. Some earnest textile student emails you privately and enthuses rhapsodic about your work, then asks if she/he can use you as an example in a project for her/his sixth form/foundation year project, or whatever it is. (To date, they have all been UK students.) They proceed to ask lots of questions and require detailed answers. You never hear back from them after complying and being generous with your time and ideas. NEVER.

Yes, it's flattering and i usually don't mind answering and sharing, but you know what? I'm not going to do your homework for you. If you know how to use the net, use some netiquette. Comment on the things you like, share some of your work/experiences/thoughts. You'll learn more that way. Do you hit on certain areas that interest you here? Or are you just looking at one thing and thinking "Oh she'll do"?

I've never been sent back a thank you saying i "made" her/his project, the other students were impressed, the teacher blown away by my talent, she/he won a scholarship. That's not what i'm looking for. Common courtesy dictates a response of some sort after the fact of presentation if you're using my work and thoughts. Is that too much to ask?

Now, i am not picking on this Kate. All of the requests from the 7 "students" have been polite, clear and forthright. BUT,when they swear up and down that i will see the finished project, i expect some follow-up. ZIP ZILCH ZERO is what has happened. I even found one on Facebook and she still didn't respond. I myself have emailed people, after going through their "online presence", and asked questions, especially now with the ARTeries column on MrXStitch. Even when they say no, politely or not, i follow up with a little note thanking them, and if i have used their input, i direct them to the appropriate link. COMMON COURTESY.

I don't hold back "trade secrets" here. I've constantly shared examples, methods and projects. It's not like i'm holding out on these requests. What would be the point of my online presence then? If you're not truly interested, then go buy "Textile Art for Dummies"----i'm sure Amazon has something that would help.

Miss/Mr Textile Student, i would love to help you. I suggest that you peruse the site, using the search button, read, explore, make yourself visible and go from there.
 
I hope you understand. Thank you for your kind words.

And don't tell me the dog ate your homework.

Update on Sun, November 1, 2009 at 11:47AM by arlee

In my experience, this is not an email scam, at least not in the ordinary sense. I received back several responses--without the end result as asked for--and did online searches for some of these people. They do exist, but in their own rarified world, as most students do.

testing video

I'm just learning how to use the video part of my camera and am testing here---soon i hope to have actual content, with voice :}